9 January 2024
Sera Gearhardt dispatches Fingerslut (8B)
Sera Gearhardt has started 2024 by sending Fingerslut (8B) in Joe's Valley (UT). In 2023, she did a dozen boulders 8A to 8B and she is #6 in the ranking game. (c) Three Peak Films
โThis boulder climbs the start of a 7C+ into a tiny crimp and committing jump to a jug. The jump has a huge swing over a rock. I'm not a very brave climber in general, so even though I found beta to make the swing much smaller than others, I struggled with committing to it from the bottom. I prefer to climb in static positions. I did the move in isolation a ton of times to feel safer and practiced a little on the kilter board with huge swings. On the go, my friends had to yell a ton of encouragement to get me to commit to it.โ
โThis boulder climbs the start of a 7C+ into a tiny crimp and committing jump to a jug. The jump has a huge swing over a rock. I'm not a very brave climber in general, so even though I found beta to make the swing much smaller than others, I struggled with committing to it from the bottom. I prefer to climb in static positions. I did the move in isolation a ton of times to feel safer and practiced a little on the kilter board with huge swings. On the go, my friends had to yell a ton of encouragement to get me to commit to it.โ
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Prince of Thieves 8A flash by Natalia Grossman
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