Sam Weir does Poison the Well (8C+)

Sam Weir, with three 8C+ ascents to his name, has repeated Giuliano Cameroni’s Poison the Well (8C+) in Brione after about 25 sessions. The 34-year-old did his first 8C in 2017 and then sent one every year, more or less, until the last two years, when he has done ten problems graded 8C and harder. He works full-time as a proposal/contract manager in the nuclear field.

”9A personal feeling. 7C+ intro leads to a one move 8B/8B+ to an 8B/+ section similar but harder than Hazel Grace stand style & difficulty. Really height and reach dépendant and it was at my full limit reach. 3 cm margin on the reach… zero margin for error on the move. Insane. Thanks Giul again for this masterpiece!”

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent and your thoughts about your peak?
I’m feeling good. Fingers are firing on all cylinders and been having a blast! I started trying this line over a year ago. The crux is this crazy double bump which was at my absolute limit of reach. After 8 sessions I did the move once. I thought if I could do this from the bottom once I could get it done but no!

After a big summer of training and antistyle climbing I came back stronger. This fall the crux went from having done it 3 times ever to doing it from the bottom 3 times in a row. I fell about 15 times even after doing the crux.. what a wild and special one. Personally it felt like I achieved a 9A effort so really curious to see how I get on now that I finished the last 8C+ I really wanted to do.

How did you train this summer and how have you maintained the power during the outdoor season?
Over the summer. I just did a lot of board climbing with my friends on our wall and basic weights. Plus I tried really hard on Clement’s [Lechaptois] boulders at Fionnay which I did not do which are really antistyle for me!

I work full time so I climb outside once a week plus one or two days I took off when the conditions were good! To stay in shape I just keep the hard board climbing. Watch my diet since volume drops a lot and some max effort work.