Sam Weir completes REM 8C+

Sam Weir has done the third ascent of Giuliano Cameroni’s REM (8C+) in Cresciano, video. It was established as an 8C+ and then Paul Robinson did the second ascent giving it a proposing 8B+ , as he did in a few short sessions. "It is hard to grade a boulder that is really just one move. It is very [much] in my style, meaning it is possibly 8C."

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
You know people are always super quick to say after one downgrade that’s the grade of something. This thing is hard! REM is a crimp masterpiece. Hard 8C or low 8C+. I think Giuliano gave the correct grade. It needs crazy perfect sticky damp conditions and I got them. The Boulder was soaked when I arrived and I think when it dried just the residual humidity on the rock made it sticky! Physically, it's not the hardest move I’ve done on crimps, but the fact that the crux is the last move makes it hard!!! It turns an 8A move into an 8B move with all the factors involved. The temperature, humidity, wind, and skin all need to line up perfectly when arriving to the 5mm crimp. You get 2/3 goes once every once a week... Still two grades harder than Dreamtime for me which I did in a few sessions ... Time will tell. But for sure my hardest ascent to date! Heading to Bishop or Vegas in February to visit my family so let’s see how Sleepwalker or Lucid Dreaming compares 😎