Route setting difficulties

The route setting in Moscow was in general great, but unfortunately, the Lead Combined finals were way too easy. Jan Zbranek, who is also doing the job in Tokyo, was kind enough to answer some questions.

Did you get instructions to make the Combined routes easier?
We don't really get updated instructions for every comp. The guidelines never change: One top is perfect. I think we just didn't realize how tired we were after 14 days of setting. I think this was last of this crazy marathon competitions. And no matters what format we use in the future, or if we get some help of the testers, after 7 days of setting we need a rest day. This would help us to maximize the chance of hitting the right level.

What about letting one or two of the guys not making it to the final testing the final route?
As a chief route setter you have to know your tester very well. It is like you ask someone to taste a wine for you. There must be a strong connection between you and the tester. So it is harder, then you may think, to find a good person. Each experienced route setter is usually aware of his strengths and weaknesses. It is very special gift, when competition climber is also able to do this. And I don't even want to start the discussion about the conflict of interest, that we may create by picking let say Russian athlete in Moscow... So right now, I want to use this Russian experience as a motivation to get in better shape for the upcoming season and do a better job. 🙂

Do you have any other alternative to increase the chances for making the route perfect?
For Tokyo, we have strong setters on the team. Also, we have to set "only" 4 routes. This could help to increase the chance to set a perfect route. But it is a complicated question. The athletes going for the Olympics are younger, stronger, more talented and they get from their federations definitely better conditions for training than the route setters. So yes, sometimes it can be a little stressful, trying to imagine how much better will they be at the Olympics. But right now I feel like we are pioneers of our job and if we do it well, maybe in the future, there will be an opportunity for the competition route setters to work directly for IFSC. This could mean a stable job throughout the whole year and maybe also some time for training. This could also attract the top climbers to join the route setting team and help us to keep the gap between the climbers and the setters small.

Tokyo route setting team:
Lead: Adam Pustelnik POL - Chief, Hiroshi Okano JPN and Jan Zbranek CZE.
Bouldering: Percy Bishton GBR (Chief), Manuel Hassler SUI, Katja Vidmar SLO and Romain Cabessut FRA