Rhapsody 8c/+ by Jacopo Larcher

Jacopo Larcher has made the fifth ascent of Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody, which is an 8c/+ trad elimination at Dumbarton Rock. MacLeod spent 70 days and took many 20 meter falls, which was featured in the great E11 video, youtube trailer. Back in 2006, Rhapsody was considered to be the hardest trad route in the world. (c) Richard Felderer - I spent 9 days on it and I climbed it on my 7th lead attempt. For the grade, I agree with everybody's opinion: 8c/+. That thing is hard! It also takes some time to get used to the weird glassy rock. About safety, it's completely different from the other hard trad routes I did, as the first part is very safe (a crack with bomber gear). After you place the last bit of (small) gear, you have to climb a loooong way to the top. The good thing is that you will never hit the ground, but you can take some really big falls, which could end up in injuries if the rope coils around your leg while falling. I wasn't afraid about the gear, but I was worried to hit the ledge if I would fall off the top. I know James took the falls from the top and nothing happened...but I wasn't very psyched to try that out. But yes, it's an elimination. Even if the climbing is brilliant! It's not nice to denigrate Dave's work, as he put so much effort into it. He hurt him self, but he kept on going for it, demonstrating dedication and passion. I'm glad he put up this route. At the time (and still now) he pushed the level of trad climb forward! And I think that should be respected (especially from the people who've never seen or tried the route). Jacopo is talking about the controversies all the four first ascentionists were involved in. First James Pearson, #3 repeater, questioned the grade and the nature of the route he had not done. Later Sonnie Trotter, #2, questioned Steve McClure's third ascent saying he had used eliminated holds which also MacLeod agreed upon. Steve thought their comments deamened the quality of the route defining it as an elimination. Steve also thought Trotter had done the FA as MacLeod in fact had not placed any gear on his attempt referring to that MacLeod in fact had first climbed and placed gear for on the first 25 meter of the route and later reversed to the ground. In practice, this means that MacLeod climbed on top rope for 25 meters out of Rhapsody's 35 meters and did not place any gear on his ascent.