Rest - Chalk - Clip


Sunday, 24 May

Once you have pushed through the crux coming up to a good hold by the clip, it is very important to first rest, then chalk and possibly 30 seconds later do the clip. The reason for this is that you would like to minimize the intensive periods with no blood circulation. Let say you have spent 20 seconds with full power doing the crux moves. If you carry on clipping directly your blood circulation will be relatively poor for another 10 seconds.

Beginning to rest on good holds after the crux means you should go from one extreme in your mindset to the opposite. You should focus on your breathing and relax your hold body like in a yoga position. After some shakeouts, you could chalk up and continue resting. Once you are fully back you could do the clip and if that in any way includes some effort, you should rest again and fully recover before continuing upwards.

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