24 May 2020
Rest - Chalk - Clip
Once you have pushed through the crux coming up to a good hold by the clip, it is very important to first rest, then chalk and possibly 30 seconds later do the clip. The reason for this is that you would like to minimize the intensive periods with no blood circulation. Let say you have spent 20 seconds with full power doing the crux moves. If you carry on clipping directly your blood circulation will be relatively poor for another 10 seconds.
Beginning to rest on good holds after the crux means you should go from one extreme in your mindset to the opposite. You should focus on your breathing and relax your hold body like in a yoga position. After some shakeouts, you could chalk up and continue resting. Once you are fully back you could do the clip and if that in any way includes some effort, you should rest again and fully recover before continuing upwards.
Beginning to rest on good holds after the crux means you should go from one extreme in your mindset to the opposite. You should focus on your breathing and relax your hold body like in a yoga position. After some shakeouts, you could chalk up and continue resting. Once you are fully back you could do the clip and if that in any way includes some effort, you should rest again and fully recover before continuing upwards.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


