Redpointing and onsighting can be counter productive

EDITORIAL

Sunday, 3 January

The most limiting factor for the majority of climbers is that when the uncertainty kicks in, you actually give up, trying the full 100 %. Dani Andrada has made a trademark about, "A Muerte", i.e. To the Death. Most climbers would immediately gain two or three grades on onsight if they had the mentality to walk the fine line and push as hard as the best.

The dilemma is that going A Muerte is mainly about which personality you have and it is very hard to make any big gains after having left your teens. In other words, we do not want kids going into the long-term redpointing game as this might cause almost irrecuperable damage to their future onsight possibilities.

Furthermore, the more you say - Take! and hang as you are projecting your route, the less you learn how to climb, A Muerte! In the short run, it is often smarter to hang, rest and work the route rather than to give it all and fall super pumped just under the anchor. At the same time, developing as the best climber you can be, means most probably that you should try to get as much A Muerte! experience as possible. This you will need once you are setting also a new personal redpoint best and climb out of your comfort zone.

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