Redpointing and onsighting can be counter productive
EDITORIAL
Sunday, 3 January
The dilemma is that going A Muerte is mainly about which personality you have and it is very hard to make any big gains after having left your teens. In other words, we do not want kids going into the long-term redpointing game as this might cause almost irrecuperable damage to their future onsight possibilities.
Furthermore, the more you say - Take! and hang as you are projecting your route, the less you learn how to climb, A Muerte! In the short run, it is often smarter to hang, rest and work the route rather than to give it all and fall super pumped just under the anchor. At the same time, developing as the best climber you can be, means most probably that you should try to get as much A Muerte! experience as possible. This you will need once you are setting also a new personal redpoint best and climb out of your comfort zone.
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Add crags to the database
We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.
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Systematic Devaluing ethics
Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…
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Wednesday, 18 May
No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs
During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …
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NUMBERS
Tuesday, 19 January
Add crags to the database
We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.
NUMBERS
Monday, 12 October
Systematic Devaluing ethics
Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…
EDITORIAL
Wednesday, 18 May
No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs
During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …