Recruiting muscle fibers - Get 100 % stronger in one hour

Most climbers have a preferred gripping position which is constantly trained. At the same time, the weak gripping position is avoided as much as possible meaning it is almost never trained. With some specific finger training of the weakest position, you can get 100 % stronger in 1 hour, i.e. 100 % more muscle fibres will be in use. The most effective way to recruit your muscle fibres is to just hang on your weak finger position and then gradually increase the load until you can do long campus moves. Here is a recipe on how to quickly get 100 % stronger in your weakest finger position, which is normally a 3-finger open crimp, using a campus board.

1. Start by hanging for less than a second 8 times and then rest for 15 seconds. Repeat 5 - 10 times.
2. Use your feet and jump up to rungs 4 times and hang for less than a second, with each hand, and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 times.
3. Make moves upwards with both hands and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 times.
4. Make two double hand moves upwards and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 - 10 times.
5. Make two double hand moves downwards and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 times.

Once this session is finished, you will most probably have become 100 % stronger in your weakest position. If you continue to climb you will notice that you will suddenly start using your weakest position and in the long run, your muscle fibres will also grow and you will become much stronger. Note, campus board training should not be done until you are 18 years old and you are an experienced climber. It should also be mentioned that closed crimps are only for the advanced climbers and it is also the position most get an injury from.