
25 November 2015
Recruit max power in warming up and get better endurance
The more of your muscle fibers you use, the more blood you shoot in circulation. In general, when up to 20% of the muscle fibers are in use, the blood vessels are fully open meaning that you can more or less go on forever. When 50% or more of the fibers are used, the blood vessels are completely shut.
In other words, as you get stronger, using smaller percentage of your fibers, the better your blood circulation gets, i.e. you get better endurance.
If you have low maximum power, especially when it takes long time to recruit maximum power, you will get better endurance by including some maximum moves in your warming up.
In practice, this can mean that instead of using 50% of your muscle fibers during a hard sequence doing your first hard route, you might only use 40% of them. This means that recruiting maximum power on warming up will ensure better blood circulation and thus better endurance.
On the other hand, if you have high and fast maximum power, it might be that a very soft and relaxed warming up will get you better endurance. The reasons of it are that you will not overgrip on the easier sequences, which might hinder your blood circulation. Another way to improve your endurance, might be compressions sleeves, as in the picture.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


