Queue ethics on crowded crags

EDITORIAL

27 April 2021

As we probably will see many crowded crags this year, it might be a good thing to discuss queue ethics. There are absolutely new "rules" and ethics probably vary from crag to crag. In general, I think that if there are drawers or even a rope on a route that is not used, you could always ask if you could have a go. If they are kind to let you have a go, you should not start hand-dogging.

The dilemma is of course if the other party say that you are not allowed even if they do not climb on it or if they block the routes for several hours as many of them are having multiple tries. If we are talking about one of the easiest routes on the crag that many want to use for a warm-up, I do not think it is respectful to book it for several hours. Personally, I always say that anybody could have a go as long as it is done on my top rope. A quick top rope send just takes a couple minutes meanwhile starting to lead often take at least double as long time.

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