23 August 2021
Puro Dreaming 8c+ (9a) by Cody Roth (37)
Cody Roth has done Puro Dreaming in Arco which he thinks is 8c+. It was bolted by Alfredo Webber and originally thought to be 9a but possibly due to better kneebar technics, some have started calling it 8c+.
"Iโve been living in Arco since October. I work full time for Vertical-Life, whose main office is just an hour and some change from Arco. Iโm able to do a lot of my work from home and with there being so many options close to Arco, Iโm able to climb after work a few days a week. On average I probably climb three days a week. I havenโt climbed in a gym in over a year, but that will probably change come winter. I hadnโt tried Pure Dreaming in probably a month prior to doing it first go last week. It had been too warm for Massone, and I like having multiple projects and also spending some days onsighting and just messing around. I think if you solely focus on one project at a time, your climbing narrows and you lose your mental sharpness.
I think Iโve done close 10 8cโs or harder since moving to Arco. On all but one, as soon as Iโve done what was the barrier move for me, Iโve gone on to send. So, I guess Iโve been doing an okay job of converting the chances I get! Reiniโs Vibes felt harder than Pure Dreaming, which is why I wouldnโt claim it at 9a. It has one move thatโs a bit riskier, but it has better rests and requires less resistance."
"Iโve been living in Arco since October. I work full time for Vertical-Life, whose main office is just an hour and some change from Arco. Iโm able to do a lot of my work from home and with there being so many options close to Arco, Iโm able to climb after work a few days a week. On average I probably climb three days a week. I havenโt climbed in a gym in over a year, but that will probably change come winter. I hadnโt tried Pure Dreaming in probably a month prior to doing it first go last week. It had been too warm for Massone, and I like having multiple projects and also spending some days onsighting and just messing around. I think if you solely focus on one project at a time, your climbing narrows and you lose your mental sharpness.
I think Iโve done close 10 8cโs or harder since moving to Arco. On all but one, as soon as Iโve done what was the barrier move for me, Iโve gone on to send. So, I guess Iโve been doing an okay job of converting the chances I get! Reiniโs Vibes felt harder than Pure Dreaming, which is why I wouldnโt claim it at 9a. It has one move thatโs a bit riskier, but it has better rests and requires less resistance."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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