27 May 2022

Puccio is back from yet another injury

Alex Puccio, possibly the best female boulderer during the last 15 years, in spite of several injuries, has during two weeks in Magic Woods sent SteppenWolf 8B, The bizarre Ride 8A+ (2nd try from the start), Left Hand of darkness 8A+, Body Count 8A+ and Bomb is the Explosion 8A (2nd try). (c) Nina Williams

Are you fully recovered from all your injuries including the SC joint injury last year?
Pretty much. It will never be quite the same, as in I have to be careful on certain types of moves with it and if I push it too hard in some weird positions it can be sore in the morning.

I had a right shoulder issue before we left for the UK in mid April so didn’t climb for a few weeks, just did shoulder rehab. I’m not nearly back to my strength yet, but getting better. Building a base again out here. I started climbing V3-V4 a couple of weeks before we left for the UK and then the last week before we left I was able to do a very basic V10 in the gym. This was a MASSIVE improvement since I didn’t think I would be climbing on the trip at all for a while.

So now, even tho it’s been a bit frustrating at times, I’m climbing and trying to stay happy while regaining strength, power and fitness. :) Since I have already done a lot of stuff in Magic Wood I have been trying to find climbs that I can potentially do at my current fitness level. A little hard, but I have done some nice climbs. :)

How was this tick list possible not fully recovered?
I don’t know. I still feel pretty weak for myself. I think it will take a few more months to get back where I want to be. These shoulder issues started last late summer with my SC joint injury where I couldn’t lift my left arm more than 90 degrees for over 2 months. So I didn’t climb or hang board or anything for over 2.5 months. Then I started extremely easy sport climbing and then only sport climbed really till December. Then At beginning of February when to Red Rocks where I climbed quite well despite overcoming my injury and then on the trip I hurt my right shoulder from overcompensating and trying to climb hard. But from all of this, I have learned to listen to my body and the importance of taking care of it!! Lol!
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