Prune Martinoty completes Stay kratom stay safe (8c)

Prune Martinoty has sent Stay kratom stay safe (8c) in Saint Léger. In 2023, she sent her first 8b+ and since, she has focused mainly on Stay… which she took down after some 35 sessions. (c) Clement Bustel

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started thinking about climbing 8c three years ago. When I first tried Stay (Stay Kratom Stay Safe), it felt impossible to send because the hard moves seemed extreme, and even the “easy” sections were hard for me. So I trained, and little by little the project started to feel possible. Last winter I was really close to sending, but I broke a pulley.

It felt like my dream was falling apart, so every day since then I’ve worked hard to get my level back. In the fall I returned to the route, but the rain interrupted attempts for the whole winter. I came back to the route about ten days ago, and every day I was falling higher. On Sunday I fell almost at the top, and I was so sad to fail.

On Tuesday, my first run was difficult because the rain had once again soaked the key hold for the first crux. I had decided to go home, but I didn’t want to come all the way to the crag for just one attempt, so I got myself ready again.

I fell twice in a row at the second quickdraw. I told my friends, “if I fall again, I’m done, I’m leaving.” And then I passed the section, even though the hold was completely wet, all the way to the good rest. And I knew that from there I could send, because I had already done it two days before. But to avoid pressure and not mess it up, I pretended that I hadn’t just done the bottom and that I was only trying for practice.

I felt good on every move, super focused. I took my time on every rest, even though they’re not great… When I reached the last rest, I felt the emotion rising because I knew it was done. Then came a few meters of very easy climbing, just to enjoy what you’ve achieved.

When I pulled the rope, it was crazy. The moment the rope started to clip into the carabiner, I exploded with joy. It was incredible to realize how far I had come. For some people, climbing 8c isn’t a big deal. But for me, I had just achieved my dream. It was extraordinary. Even this morning, I still can’t quite believe it.

What is next?
Now I want to do some easier route like 8a-8b for the rest of holiday and after go back for another 8c. Two in one season would be amazing.

Next dream it’s probably 9a but not sure it’s possible if you’re not professionnal climber and not ready to go through this process again. I need to enjoy my victory, and then I’ll get back to training for do other 8c and maybe harder routes.