31 December 2016

Pros and cons of grading

Here is a list with the most important aspects of grades, i.e. why we need them. It also shows that grades are more important for route climbers than for boulderers. 1. Selecting which routes to warm up on 2. Selecting which routes to onsight 3. Selecting which routes to redpoint 4. Measuring progress 5. Measuring daily shape 6. Playing with friends 7. Comparing the best in the world 8. Selecting climber of the year etc The bad thing with grades is of course that you may be temptated to start choosing climbs based on the softness and not on the quality. Another negative aspect could be getting disappointed just because you could not do your normal grade, when in reality it may have been your anti-style. One could say that if you like slash grades you think in general that grades are more important. In many gyms, grading boulders is done with colours instead of grades and some boulderers have actually said that we could skip the +'s outdoors as boulder grades are just very personal. What do you think?
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ