31 August 2023
Solly Kemball makes the FA of Poseidon's Wraith (8C)
Solomon Kemball, who previously has repeated two 8Cโs, has done the FA of Poseidon's Wraith (8C) in Trewethet . He spent almost 30 sessions on it and was debating even calling it 8C+. (c) Annie Nesta Martin
โPoseidon's Wraith is near Boscastle on a 60 degree board that's 3-4 meters high and 10-15 meters wide which is relatively blank with a couple lines. This line is in the middle of the wall and is seven moves long with each move being somewhere between 7B and 8A+ individually.
The main issue with this bloc is it can seep from the rain and gets hit by the swell from the sea via a blow hole so even with usually small seas it will sometimes get drenched. To get it in good condition you need big winds in the right direction but low swell which rarely happens and it being so steep that some holds won't get hit by the sun to dry. Luckily I live twenty minutes away so I have just driven over to see if it's dry or not multiple times and it's fortunate that it's one of the best places to be so time down there doesn't feel like a waste.
I spent 15 sessions of climbing on it last year in which I managed to do all the moves individually but not many links the best being putting the first 3 moves together which in themselves are around 8B+/C. This year I spent another 13 sessions to finish it up.
I struggled with grading Poseidon's Wraith and was debating giving it 8C+ and I think the main goal is to try and expand the amount of 8Cs and trying 8C+'s around the world the first one I want to go up and try to finish is Isles of Wonder (sit ), up in north Wales and then try head out to Switzerland to sample some of the harder blocs [there].โ
โPoseidon's Wraith is near Boscastle on a 60 degree board that's 3-4 meters high and 10-15 meters wide which is relatively blank with a couple lines. This line is in the middle of the wall and is seven moves long with each move being somewhere between 7B and 8A+ individually.
The main issue with this bloc is it can seep from the rain and gets hit by the swell from the sea via a blow hole so even with usually small seas it will sometimes get drenched. To get it in good condition you need big winds in the right direction but low swell which rarely happens and it being so steep that some holds won't get hit by the sun to dry. Luckily I live twenty minutes away so I have just driven over to see if it's dry or not multiple times and it's fortunate that it's one of the best places to be so time down there doesn't feel like a waste.
I spent 15 sessions of climbing on it last year in which I managed to do all the moves individually but not many links the best being putting the first 3 moves together which in themselves are around 8B+/C. This year I spent another 13 sessions to finish it up.
I struggled with grading Poseidon's Wraith and was debating giving it 8C+ and I think the main goal is to try and expand the amount of 8Cs and trying 8C+'s around the world the first one I want to go up and try to finish is Isles of Wonder (sit ), up in north Wales and then try head out to Switzerland to sample some of the harder blocs [there].โ
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