27 May 2019
Privatvรคgen 8c mix FA by Tomi Nytorp (40)
Tomi Nytorp, who previously has done a couple of 9a's, has made the FA of Piratvรคgen 8c in Finland, an open project since 20 years. The Finn had placed a fix piton as well as some preplaced trad protection.
"All together I visited the cliff about 15 times, and of them: serious projecting maybe 5 sessions. I personally thing the grade could be closer to 8c. I did lead it on my second lead try, with gears placed. The line itself is such a beautiful clean crack, hard, and trad.
I train about 4 times a week, outdoors when possible, otherwise I train by bouldering in my own home climbing gym at home. I seldom visit commercial gyms."
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