
31 December 2024
Pietro Vidi completes Tribe (9a?) trad
Pietro Vidi has made the second repeat, after James Pearson, of Jacopo Larcherโs Tribe in Cadarese. None of the climbers have chosen to suggest a grade but based on their comments and how much effort they put in, 9a is a possible speculation. The 22-year-old Italian, who was #14 in the European Boulder Championship, is #3 in the ranking game including having done two 8C+โ. (c) Camilla Moroni
Can you tell us more about the ascent and how dangerous it is?
I already checked out the route at the end of last season and immediately got hooked! As soon as the temperatures dropped I immediately went back to it, made some good progress and thought it wouldnโt take long. Turned out the route is incredibly condition dependent and gets really wet, this with a technical and low percentage crux made for a real battle that lasted way longer than I expected!
The route is actually pretty safe and the crux is well protected, but there are still some no-fall zones like the 7a intro or right after the crux where you place 2 ballnuts that I still donโt know if they would catch a fall, you probably wouldnโt hit the ground tho.
About the grade I really respect Jacopo decision [to not grade it] and the route was much more complex for me than a simple grade can express but I can definitely say it was one of my biggest fights and had a pretty hard time on the second boulder!
I got a reel on my profile of the fall from the last hard move I took many times, around 8 meters or so I think. For protecting the crux I used a grey C4 and an offset alien, placing gear was pretty pumpy for me and opted for a faster placement that popped once, so I switched back to the same placements as Jacopo and James ๐ .
Did you first work it on top rope and how did you clean it before each redooint attempt?
Yes, but just for 2 sessions I think, itโs actually pretty annoying to work some of those moves with top rope, once i could make decent link I tried the crux with previous laced gear and the pretty soon started with red point attempts.
Definitely pretty annoying to jug up every time and clean it with the static rope, but is just part of the process of trad climbing I guess.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and how dangerous it is?
I already checked out the route at the end of last season and immediately got hooked! As soon as the temperatures dropped I immediately went back to it, made some good progress and thought it wouldnโt take long. Turned out the route is incredibly condition dependent and gets really wet, this with a technical and low percentage crux made for a real battle that lasted way longer than I expected!
The route is actually pretty safe and the crux is well protected, but there are still some no-fall zones like the 7a intro or right after the crux where you place 2 ballnuts that I still donโt know if they would catch a fall, you probably wouldnโt hit the ground tho.
About the grade I really respect Jacopo decision [to not grade it] and the route was much more complex for me than a simple grade can express but I can definitely say it was one of my biggest fights and had a pretty hard time on the second boulder!
I got a reel on my profile of the fall from the last hard move I took many times, around 8 meters or so I think. For protecting the crux I used a grey C4 and an offset alien, placing gear was pretty pumpy for me and opted for a faster placement that popped once, so I switched back to the same placements as Jacopo and James ๐ .
Did you first work it on top rope and how did you clean it before each redooint attempt?
Yes, but just for 2 sessions I think, itโs actually pretty annoying to work some of those moves with top rope, once i could make decent link I tried the crux with previous laced gear and the pretty soon started with red point attempts.
Definitely pretty annoying to jug up every time and clean it with the static rope, but is just part of the process of trad climbing I guess.
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