Pierre Marzullo, 16, ticks Supercrackinette (9a+)

Pierre Marzullo has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. The last week of October, the 16-year-old spent in Albarracín, sending nine boulders 8A to 8B, including a flash of Esperanza sit (8A+).

"A dream came true today 🥹 Didn’t have the words for what I’m feeling right now. I just know that I want to try harder stuff, spend more time on it, and repeat that all my life." (c) Timothée Nitschke

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started to try it last year and at first, it just fell really far [away]. But I was confident that with good training and muscle memory, it would be doable. I arrived at that point where every try could be the one and I was putting a lot of pressure on myself. It finally became too hot and I had to leave the project empty-handed. This year I came back with no pressure for one week not especially for sending at first but just taking some good time at St Léger and it worked! I finally sent the route on the last try of the 3rd day of climbing in a row. I was exhausted but I did it with the mental focus.

What are your winter plans?
Just train a lot for the comps and hopefully send Biographie if it’s not too wet. I’m living one hour from the crag so I can go whenever I want. If there’s good weather the conditions are the best! Burden of Dreams is a really long-term project so I’m not planning to invest a lot this year but I will start to check it and I’ll dedicate more time to it next year.