7 November 2023

Pierre Marzullo, 16, ticks Supercrackinette (9a+)

Pierre Marzullo has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. The last week of October, the 16-year-old spent in Albarracín, sending nine boulders 8A to 8B, including a flash of Esperanza sit (8A+).

"A dream came true today 🥹 Didn’t have the words for what I’m feeling right now. I just know that I want to try harder stuff, spend more time on it, and repeat that all my life." (c) Timothée Nitschke

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started to try it last year and at first, it just fell really far [away]. But I was confident that with good training and muscle memory, it would be doable. I arrived at that point where every try could be the one and I was putting a lot of pressure on myself. It finally became too hot and I had to leave the project empty-handed. This year I came back with no pressure for one week not especially for sending at first but just taking some good time at St Léger and it worked! I finally sent the route on the last try of the 3rd day of climbing in a row. I was exhausted but I did it with the mental focus.

What are your winter plans?
Just train a lot for the comps and hopefully send Biographie if it’s not too wet. I’m living one hour from the crag so I can go whenever I want. If there’s good weather the conditions are the best! Burden of Dreams is a really long-term project so I’m not planning to invest a lot this year but I will start to check it and I’ll dedicate more time to it next year.
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Luca Bana ticks Supercrackinette (9a+)

Luca Bana has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. ”What a day, perfect flow. Less than 10 tries in 5 sessions. Best way to start the new year.” (c) Viola T…

Jules Marchaland adopts a fast climbing style and makes quick work of, Super Crackinette (9a+)

Jules Marchaland, who has redpointed a 9a+ and another 9a, in the last six weeks, has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. (c) Théo Ravanello Can you tell …

Domen Škofic does 8c+ x5 in St Léger

Domen Škofic has been on a four week “solo” trip to Saint Léger, where he did 17 routes 8b to 8c+, including two onsights. (c) Jan Novak The five hardest, for …