
10 February 2022
Perfect Man 2.0 8c+/9a by Alberto Gotta
Alberto Gotta has done Perfect Man 8c+/9a in . It was found by Andrea Gallo and later rebolted by Matteo Gambaro, who made the FA in 2016.
How was the process taking it down?
I think something like 20 sessions but only during weekends because it is not close to my home and I'm a full-time worker. I sent it after trying it occasionally over some years because it is not that close to my hometown. That's why I needed some years. Differently from Matteo, I rested with a kneebar that I found just before the last hard section so that's why I proposed the 8c+/9a. It's a very nice powerful route under the main roof of the crag. A visit is definitely worth it.
You have not done many hard routes the last three years and now you started 2022 by doing three routes 8c+ and harder?
That's because I was almost a professional climber while studying at the University so I climbed a lot both in competitions and on rock. When the University finished, I immediately started working and the time for training drastically reduced affecting my performance. Lately, I found a good work/life balance so training is in full swing and I am able to climb hard again. (In 2016 and 2017, he was Top-21 six times in the World Cup, as well as doing his first 8c+.)
How was the process taking it down?
I think something like 20 sessions but only during weekends because it is not close to my home and I'm a full-time worker. I sent it after trying it occasionally over some years because it is not that close to my hometown. That's why I needed some years. Differently from Matteo, I rested with a kneebar that I found just before the last hard section so that's why I proposed the 8c+/9a. It's a very nice powerful route under the main roof of the crag. A visit is definitely worth it.
You have not done many hard routes the last three years and now you started 2022 by doing three routes 8c+ and harder?
That's because I was almost a professional climber while studying at the University so I climbed a lot both in competitions and on rock. When the University finished, I immediately started working and the time for training drastically reduced affecting my performance. Lately, I found a good work/life balance so training is in full swing and I am able to climb hard again. (In 2016 and 2017, he was Top-21 six times in the World Cup, as well as doing his first 8c+.)
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Related news
Claudia Ghisolfi, who last September did her first 9a, and placed in the top ten at a Lead World Cup, has done Premiere (8c) in .
Can you tell us more about Prโฆ
18 October 2009
First 9a by Matteo Gambaro (35)
Gambaro Matteo has done his first 9a and the FA of Azione Directa in La Piatta. It is 18 m long and it took the 35-year-old three months of work. And he has a nice website :-)
Pietro Biagini (15) has done his first 8c+, Last Man in Albenga which was put up last week by Gambaro Matteo who is 25 years older than young Biagini. Pietro has been Top-8 in both Lead and Boulder Euro Youth Cups. Matteo did his first 8c the year before Pietro was born and even so, the last 12 montโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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