22 August 2025
Pepa ล indel, 17, FAโs Harmatanec (9a)
Pepa ล indel, with previously a dozen routes 9a and beyond to his name, has done the first ascent of Harmatanec (9a) in Harmanec Krpcovo. โ A very interesting, mysterious and hard bouldery route, bolted by Kubo ล uhajda starting with an easy slabby 7- that turns left just before the breathtaking roof above you. This overhang is the hardest part of the route.
9 moves on super small holds including a super big span from a shitty 2 finger pocket.
However, Harmatanec is not only about the difficulty of the crux, but also about the mental block, because the quickdraws cannot be clipped in the entire length of the crux and you are falling into the slab below you. The only place where the quickdraw can be clipped is in the sketchy kneebar upside down where the boulder Is finnished but if you fall while clipping, you are cooked๐ฅ
Fortunately, when I got there, I was in autopilot mode and pulled throught. The kneebar is followed by another few moves of hard climbing and then comes a good rest. After that comes a long endurance 8a+ in which I fought for my life. Although I think itโs soft 9a, but still it could be 9a. In any case it is an amazing route.โ
However, Harmatanec is not only about the difficulty of the crux, but also about the mental block, because the quickdraws cannot be clipped in the entire length of the crux and you are falling into the slab below you. The only place where the quickdraw can be clipped is in the sketchy kneebar upside down where the boulder Is finnished but if you fall while clipping, you are cooked๐ฅ
Fortunately, when I got there, I was in autopilot mode and pulled throught. The kneebar is followed by another few moves of hard climbing and then comes a good rest. After that comes a long endurance 8a+ in which I fought for my life. Although I think itโs soft 9a, but still it could be 9a. In any case it is an amazing route.โ
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
16 June 2022
Four 8b+ OS in a day by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has during one day in Harmanec Krpcovo onsighted four 8b+, including Tanec s vlkmi which most ascentionists think is 8c. In total, the 29-year-old, who recently became a dad, has onsighted 191 routes 8b+ and harder, using his notorious, personal solid-for-the-grade scale. No other climberโฆ
Pepa Sindell, who last year sent Chiropetra (9a+) in Sรบฤพov, has done The FA of Hypoxia extension (9a) in Harmanec Krpcovo. The 15-year-old has previously also dโฆ
13 April 2026
Carnati and ล indel send Biologico (9a)
Stefano Carnati and Pepa ล indel have sent Biologico (9a) in Arco. Adam Ondra did the first ascent in 2012 and in total it has been logged 16 times in the databaโฆ
Related news
16 June 2022
Four 8b+ OS in a day by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has during one day in Harmanec Krpcovo onsighted four 8b+, including Tanec s vlkmi which most ascentionists think is 8c. In total, the 29-year-old, who recently became a dad, has onsighted 191 routes 8b+ and harder, using his notorious, personal solid-for-the-grade scale. No other climberโฆ
Pepa Sindell, who last year sent Chiropetra (9a+) in Sรบฤพov, has done The FA of Hypoxia extension (9a) in Harmanec Krpcovo. The 15-year-old has previously also dโฆ
13 April 2026
Carnati and ล indel send Biologico (9a)
Stefano Carnati and Pepa ล indel have sent Biologico (9a) in Arco. Adam Ondra did the first ascent in 2012 and in total it has been logged 16 times in the databaโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ