22 August 2025
Pepa ล indel, 17, FAโs Harmatanec (9a)
Pepa ล indel, with previously a dozen routes 9a and beyond to his name, has done the first ascent of Harmatanec (9a) in Harmanec Krpcovo. โ A very interesting, mysterious and hard bouldery route, bolted by Kubo ล uhajda starting with an easy slabby 7- that turns left just before the breathtaking roof above you. This overhang is the hardest part of the route.
9 moves on super small holds including a super big span from a shitty 2 finger pocket.
However, Harmatanec is not only about the difficulty of the crux, but also about the mental block, because the quickdraws cannot be clipped in the entire length of the crux and you are falling into the slab below you. The only place where the quickdraw can be clipped is in the sketchy kneebar upside down where the boulder Is finnished but if you fall while clipping, you are cooked๐ฅ
Fortunately, when I got there, I was in autopilot mode and pulled throught. The kneebar is followed by another few moves of hard climbing and then comes a good rest. After that comes a long endurance 8a+ in which I fought for my life. Although I think itโs soft 9a, but still it could be 9a. In any case it is an amazing route.โ
However, Harmatanec is not only about the difficulty of the crux, but also about the mental block, because the quickdraws cannot be clipped in the entire length of the crux and you are falling into the slab below you. The only place where the quickdraw can be clipped is in the sketchy kneebar upside down where the boulder Is finnished but if you fall while clipping, you are cooked๐ฅ
Fortunately, when I got there, I was in autopilot mode and pulled throught. The kneebar is followed by another few moves of hard climbing and then comes a good rest. After that comes a long endurance 8a+ in which I fought for my life. Although I think itโs soft 9a, but still it could be 9a. In any case it is an amazing route.โ
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