21 June 2022
Paris 2024 qualification process
IOC has published the Paris 2024 qualification process: Top-3 in the World Championships (Bern 2023), 5 Continental winners and the Top-10 from an Olympic qualifying series during March to June 2024. There will also be one host country and one Universality quota place per gender. In practice, as the USA will probably fulfil their quota places and likely no Universality climber will make it to the Olympic series, it is most likely that the Top-12 from the series will get an Olympic ticket.
Only invited athletes, based on the 2023 results, will be allowed to compete in the Olympic series, and there will be a quota of max participants per gender and nation. No specific details for these series have been given: "Exact procedure to be determined." The tricky part of the formula is the max quota and the possibility that the USA, Japan and some European countries fulfil their quota after the Continental Championships, which take place in 2023.
Another big dilemma is what will happen with the World Cup 2024 as most of the best climbers will focus on the Olympics even more than before Tokyo 2020. There are many tough decisions that have to be made, and there will also be two zones in bouldering and a totally different scoring system in the Olympic qualifications compared to the current World Cups and WcH format.
Only invited athletes, based on the 2023 results, will be allowed to compete in the Olympic series, and there will be a quota of max participants per gender and nation. No specific details for these series have been given: "Exact procedure to be determined." The tricky part of the formula is the max quota and the possibility that the USA, Japan and some European countries fulfil their quota after the Continental Championships, which take place in 2023.
Another big dilemma is what will happen with the World Cup 2024 as most of the best climbers will focus on the Olympics even more than before Tokyo 2020. There are many tough decisions that have to be made, and there will also be two zones in bouldering and a totally different scoring system in the Olympic qualifications compared to the current World Cups and WcH format.
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