Paris 2024 points scoring in China WC event 2022

IFSC informs that the China World Cup event in Chongqing 6-9/10 will be run in the same point scoring format as for the Olympic Games in Paris 2024. It should be mentioned that this event is outside the World Cup series. Here is a sum-up of the rules that also will be used during the Combined European Championship during 11-21 August.

1. Boulder scoring:
The maximum score of the Boulder phase is 100;
There will be four boulders in each round, all featuring two zones and one top;
The maximum score of each problem is 25 points – athletes will earn 3 points by securing the first zone, then move to 6 points if they secure the second zone, and claim the full 25 points if they secure the top;
0.1 point will be deducted for each fall while attempting to top*.
(In the IFSC news it says 1 point but that must be a typo.)
2. Lead scoring:
The maximum score of the Lead phase is 100;
There will be one Lead route per round, and only the final 30 moves of each route will award points;
Counting back from the top of the route, the last 15 moves will earn the athlete 5 points each, the previous 10 moves will earn the athlete 2 points each, and the previous five moves will earn the athlete 1 point each;
Any moves prior to the last 30 will earn the athlete 0 points.

In practice, based on an example that a route includes 50 moves, here are the number of points that will be received:
Hold 10 = 0 points
Hold 20 = 0 points
Hold 25 (midways) = 5 points
Hold 30 = 15 points
Hold 35 = 25 Points
Hold 40 = 50 points
Hold 45 = 75 points
Hold 50 (Top) = 100 points

This new point scoring system will increase the pressure of the route setters. If the boulders or the routes are made too easy or too hard, the Combined medals could be based on the results in just one discipline. One good point of this format is that before every climber in Lead, the commentators can say exactly which the climber needs to achieve in order to make Top-3 etc.