4 April 2022
Papichulo 9a+ by Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has done hist first 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana after some 20 sessions. Previously the editor-in-chief of the French Magazine Grimper has done ten 9a's. (c) Williclimb
Could you please say something about how you took it down?
I tried it on and of for several years (It was my side project of Fight or flight, which I failed once again this year). So quite a lot of sessions! I have done a lot of endurance training at the gym before the trip, with and without a rope. Maybe four sessions a week where I did endurance "a muerte", sometimes 15 routes between 7c and 8a+ in 3-4 hours at the gym. I think it's good training for a route like Papichulo which is more or less all about fitness.
How do you compare it to the other 9a's you have done?
I think it is my hardest. You really need to be in good shape to do it, so very very low end of 9a+, but still 9a+ in my opinion.
Could you please say something about how you took it down?
I tried it on and of for several years (It was my side project of Fight or flight, which I failed once again this year). So quite a lot of sessions! I have done a lot of endurance training at the gym before the trip, with and without a rope. Maybe four sessions a week where I did endurance "a muerte", sometimes 15 routes between 7c and 8a+ in 3-4 hours at the gym. I think it's good training for a route like Papichulo which is more or less all about fitness.
How do you compare it to the other 9a's you have done?
I think it is my hardest. You really need to be in good shape to do it, so very very low end of 9a+, but still 9a+ in my opinion.
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