
29 November 2019
Pan and Ondra most probably got an Olympic ticket
The boulder qualification did not turn out good as the first three boulders were too easy and the last too hard. YuFei Pan from China, #17 in the Boulder WC, won ahead of Adam Ondra which means they most probably got an Olympic ticket. Pan was #7 in Speed meaning that if he is dead last he will make it to the final anyhow. Ondra will qualify to the final if he is around tenth in Lead.
In the end there were ten guys getting three tops and four zones and the most unlucky was William Bosi who was super close getting also the fourth boulder. If so, he would most probably have gotten the olympic ticket. Now he was #9 and as he was #12 in Speed he needs a surprising podium place or so in Lead to make it to the final.
Conforming the poor route setting was that all 22, including the Speed specialists, had no problem what so ever to get the zone at the same time as only Meichi Narasaki topped it. Complete results
As it stands, Nathaniel Coleman #5 in Speed and #6 in Boulder is the one having performed better than expected. He needs to be around tenth in Lead to make it to the final which is his weakest discipline.
It should be underlined that Lead specialists Sascha Lehmann and Stefano Ghisolfi are among the three last but if they win, or possibly are runner up, they could anyhow make it to the final. (c) Vladek Zumr
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


