31 December 2016
Osobnรฉ ciele, trรฉning a predpoklady
ฤo sa tรฝka poฤtu bodov, v dennรญฤku 8a uprednostลujeme prelez niekoฤพkรฝch ลฅaลพkรฝch ciest v okolรญ osobnej hranie pred prelezom jednej super-ลฅaลพkej cesty, ktorรก posรบva Tvoje lezeckรฉ hranice. Stanoviลฅ si osobnรฝ cieฤพ preliezลฅ za rok 10 ลฅaลพkรฝch ciest ลกpecifickej klasifikรกcie je jednou z najlepลกรญch moลพnostรญ, ako sa zlepลกiลฅ z dlhodobรฉho hฤพadiska. V princรญpe to zlepลกuje "stabilitu lezeckej pyramรญdy", ฤo mรดลพe byลฅ pri dosahovanรญ osobnรฉho maxima a prekonรกvanรญ limitov kฤพรบฤovรฉ.
Kaลพdรฝ lezec mรก inรฉ osobnรฉ predpoklady - pohlavie, vek, vรฝลกka, vรกha atฤ. Takisto mรก vรคฤลกinou vรคฤลกรญ talent buฤ na drลพanie na otvorenรฝ ฤi zatvorenรฝ รบchop, ide mu skรดr silovรฉ alebo vytrvalostnรฉ lezenie a podobne. Je normรกlne tรฝmto predpokladom uspรดsobiลฅ svoje lezenie, ฤoho prรญkladom je naprรญklad to, ลพe veฤพkรฝch chlapov prรญliลก ฤasto nevidno v ลฅaลพkรฝch vytrvalostnรฝch 40-metrovรฝch cestรกch. Namiesto toho veฤพa z nich lezie krรกtke, silovรฉ bouldre, ฤastokrรกt s dlhรฝmi krokmi.
Hovorรญ sa, ลพe by ฤlovek mal "pracovaลฅ na svojich slabinรกch", no na dosiahnutie osobnรฉho maxima je z teoretickรฉho hฤพadiska lepลกie robiลฅ presnรฝ opak. Najprv si treba urฤiลฅ, akรฉ sรบ tvoje predpoklady a skรบsiลฅ nรกjsลฅ typ pohybu, ktorรฝ sa s nimi najviac zhoduje a sedรญ Ti najlepลกie. Mรดลพe to byลฅ dlhรฝ krok so zรกporu s vysokou nohou, traverz po oblinรกch ฤi vykozenie kolena ฤi krรญลพenie z dvojprstovej dierky.
Akonรกhle nรกjdeลก svoj obฤพรบbenรฝ pohyb, skรบs ho vyลกperkovaลฅ a potom precestovaลฅ oblasti a hฤพadaลฅ perfektnรฝ boulder ฤi cestu, kde sa takรฝto pohyb vyskytuje. Takรฝmto ลกtรฝlom sa dรก osobnรฉ maximum teoreticky zlepลกiลฅ najrรฝchlejลกie, no zรกroveล to vedie k tomu, ลพe bude Tvoja lezeckรฝ pyramรญda nestabilnรก.
Autor: Jens Larssen
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


