28 May 2021

Oriane was not aware of her 'ballerina' innovative move

On the first semi-final boulder in the Salt Lake City World Cup, Oriane Bertone innovated a new 'ballerina' move by putting almost all of her weight on the upper side of the shoe. In the screenshot, she lifts her left foot in order to put it against the volume while both her hands are on side pulls. As it turns out, she was not aware of having done it like this when we asked for comments.

"I forgot where I actually did a ballerina move 😭 To be completely honest, I was pretty confused when climbing. The beta I chose was surely not the best one. I ended up fighting to stay on the boulder by putting a knee (towards the volume). It was not gracious at all but it worked, so I guess all good in the end :))

On the contrary, I think it was gracious like a ballerina with that new innovation move.
I haven’t thought about it, to be honest, but when I think about it I feel like the shoes I have are pretty much adapted to that upper-side-shoe move and again, I don’t really remember if I did it before. Until you told me you liked the way it looked, I just thought it was a pretty ugly move 😭 I really thought I climbed pretty badly, thanks a lot! Yeah, it for sure helped a lot, I guess it was a bit part of the strange beta I imagined ha, ha."


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