22 February 2013

Optimal Humidity & Friction

During the last years, the boulderers have learnt to take advantage of colder temperatures creating better friction. Alban Besnier, a Fontainebleau local who recently did Gecko assis, 8B+ just after some light mix of snow and rain, reveals the story of optimal Font condition including some humidity. "It was the craziest day I ever had in the forest! The friction was unbelievable, except for the completely wet top out. It seems the pores in the surface on the Font limestone get more sticky with some humidity. If it is to dry and no humidity, the friction is not optimal. Clouds are normally better than just sunshine. The best temperature for me is 0 - 5 degrees which make the skin stronger and I do not swet. If it is below zero, the humidity can freeze on the rock. It is also about the temperature of the rock, the skin and the shoes. There are so many factors also depending on type of holds, rock and wind so it is impossible to know when it is perfect so in the end it is a kind of magic... So do not be lazy, go out and take the chance even if your friends say you are crazy :)
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
30 December 2023

Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

76
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
15 February 2024

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

43
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
20 February 2024

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

34
Related
3 September 2010

7C+ or 8A+ flash by Alban Besnier (19)

Alban Besnier has spent August in Rocklands where he managed to flash Green Mamba, 8A+ which he however feels more like 7C+. The 19-year-old did also flash another two 8A's and redpointed Black Shadow, 8B. Alban is #28 in the ranking game.

0
28 October 2011

8B+ by Alban Besnier

Alban Besnier has made a nice personal best doing the first repetition of Julien Nadiras Le Clash, 8B+ in Rioupéroux. Video

0
4 February 2013

Kheops assis, 8B+ by Alban Besnier

Alban Besnier has done his econd 8B+, Kheops assis in Fontainebleau. "Best climbing day ever... 3 tries / 20 min after the stand start ! 8b+ for sure

0