Open Box 7c+ by Irmgard Braun (69)
28 September 2021
"Don't believe you are too old to improve! It took me six days to check out the moves and I sent it on day seven. I am not ascetic and not a training beast. But I am an enthusiastic climber and like testing my limits. And I am very grateful my body doesn't grumble when I am trying hard. I want to motivate other senior climbers to project routes - they will discover they can do a lot more than they ever believed. Even if there is no send, the process is fascinating: what seemed impossible in the beginning becomes climbable after several tries - and makes you stronger. For old climbers with bad knees or other niggles, bouldering with a rope is better than bouldering and jumping down. Come on, it’s fun!"
How much and how do you train?
When not on a climbing trip, I climb 2-3 times a weak, do stretching 2 times/weak and 1/weak core/ antagonists (about 1 hour). In winter I usually have 8 weeks of training for raw power (fingers and upper body) and do not climb. It seems to help, I can hang on the smallest crimp of the Lopez training board.
What are the hardest routes you have done before?
I have climbed 7c/7c+ when I was about 50. After I had several injuries and was busy with my job - journalist and author of crime stories about climbing. In those days I climbed max 7a (sometimes onsight). When I was 65, I had a broken wrist, a complicated operation and after this, I could not even lift a pan. But I did not want to become a sometimes a 6a-slab-climber, so I set the goal to climb 7c again and started to do projects. I was successful: One year later, when I was 66, I did two 7c's.
What about going for an 8a?
8a seems very far away – but if I discover a very beautiful looking climb that fits my strengths, I might have a look at it next year.
12 January 2023
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…
21 January 2023
During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…
20 September 2023
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
14 April 2023
William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …
6 September 2023
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C+) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean …
30 March 2023
Chris Sharma strikes again by doing the FA of Sleeping Lion 9b+ in Siurana, after projecting it for one and a half years years at age 41. The route is located o…