2 November 2016
Only one repeat of Action Directe 9a (+) during the last 16 months
EDIT: David Firnenburg repeated AD the same day as the article below was published.
In 2016 we have seen an increase in the number of 9a ascents, with possibly 50%. At the same time, we have not seen an ascent of Action Direct for 16 months, which should be the standard 9a nowadays, even if it originally counted as an 8c+/9a.
As none of the previous 18 ascents of Action Direct has been done during the months between November and March, most likely we are getting closer to actually getting two years without an ascent of the standard 9a.
This indicates that Action Directe is actually more difficult than the current 9as that are put up and repeated frequently in 2016, i.e. the grade deflation continues. In practice this means that the original 8c+/9a Action Directe might possibly deserve another upgrade!
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


