6 August 2020

Ondra: No OS of the first 8a to 8b+?

Adam Ondra comes with the interesting facts on Insta that none of the first 8a to 8b+ never have been onsighted. Here is the list that Ondra refers to but as it turns out, he might be wrong.

8a: Grand Illusion trad, FA Tony Yaniro 1979. It has six ascents in the 8a database, out of which two with 8a+ suggestions and three marked it as "hard". The sixth ascent is from Alex Honnold. In other words, this one might better fit as an 8a+. Mini-doc video

A contender for the first 8a in the world, which has been onsighted by Adam Ondra could be Cosmic Debris 8a trad by Bill Price in 1980. It is located in Yosemite and Alex Honnold has actually soled it.

8a+: The Face, FA Jerry Moffat 1983 A route in Frankenjura well repeated. Mini-doc video
8b: Kanal im Rรผcken, FA Wolfgang Gรผllich 1984 A well repeated route in Frankenjura.
8b+: Punks in the Gym, FA Wolfgang Gรผllich 1985 A well repeated route in Arapiles.

It should be mentioned that in 1977, Peter Cleveland did (on tope rope or pre-placed gear?) and suggested 7c for Phlogiston in Devil's Lake. Today it is considered a spicy 8a trad route. Noteworthy is that Ondra has not tried any of the routes he mentioned. Interesting is also that in 1975, the first 8A boulder was established, Trice. Comparing the difficulty in between boulders and routes, an 8A boulder = an 8b route.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ