24 September 2019

Ondra gives credit also to Stefan Fรผrst

Adam Ondra has made some comments in regardards to the forum thread, Qui 9a+ by Adam Ondra. As usual Ondra tries to give respect to the pioneers who first broke the 9a level although they were more modest in their grading. In retro persepctive it just might be that Qui from 1996 by Stefan Fรผrst was the second 9a+ in the world. "I did not ask Stefan whether he gave it 8c+ or 9a, but the whole confusion is also created not only by tougher standards (8c+ back then being todays 9a), but also due to unclear conversion between UIAA and French grades back then in 90's. Now it is set that 11-/11 is 8c+, 11 is 9a. I have never tried Akira, but out of he routes that I tried or did from 90's, I think that Hubble (1990), Action Directe (1991) and Om (1992 - 1 repetition) are more or less the same level, which means low or mid level 9a's. Weisse Rose (1994 - 1 repetition), Open Air (1996 - 1 repetition) and Qui (1996 - 1 repetition) are obviously step higher, and in todays standards might be at least low-level 9a+. Note - I have not upgraded Weisse Rose when I did it in 2009, but retrospectively thinking, it is worth consideration. This could make Weisse Rose the world's hardest route back then. Note2 - It Is unclear how much easier Qui was when Stefan did it compared to how it is now. My personal guess is that it has not changed that much. Note3 - Stefan's route X-Large in Massone has also seen only one repetition, even though he graded it only 8c in 1996. Being in the middle of the busiest crags in Italy, it is interesting... Quite an achievement back then without modern shoes that are good for heelhooking."
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