
Ondra compares the crux of Silence with Soudain Seul
”If Ondra does read this, I'd love to ask him directly why he considers this boulder he sent in 5 days to be harder than the crux 1 on Silence. Crux 1 took around 3 years with dedicated training as I recall, begging the question. Thanks!”
Ondra: Good question! Crux 1 itself (from the very last not so good kneebar, around 14 moves) is definitely much easier than SS, even though it took so much time for me to do it. But there was so much time in beta finding and finetuning my flow and microadjustements. Just before sending, I could link the crux 1 pretty solid with very good margin. For me, adding around 6 moves extra (around 7B?) before (where the last very good kneebar is) added a lot more. That link (around 20moves) could be 8C+ for sure, but probably still a bit easier than SS? The reason why Silence takes so much time to send because it is possibly the most technical and weird climbing I have ever done. It is much more tiring and less efficient to try since you have to try it from the rope and not above the pads. And skin on your left pinkie is extremely limiting factor (basically making more than 2 tries a day without tape to link the crux is very untactical - since cutting the side of your pinkie is almost sure) - combined with extreme low-percentage character of the moves - it makes it hard to link the crux on low number of days. On the other hand, I was extremely tactical on Soudain Seul, very lucky with the weather, I had all the betas available, various climbers to share the sessions with. Number of sessions to send the boulder/route is not always the most indicating one.
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Goosfraba 8c+ flash and two 9a's by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has enjoyed some great days in Padaro, close to Arco, where he flashed Goosfraba (8c+), "Climbs better than looks and all natural! Pretty happy to do…
Ondra and Hammelmüller win EC in Prague
Adam Ondra won the European Boulder Cup in Prague after lots of drama where he, as the last climber, topped out the last problem. Runner-up was Edvards Gruzitis…
Pungitopo 8c+/9a by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra did Pungitopo (8c+) in Red Point Wall in March. "Bolted by Francesco Morandi. Epic line, epic rock! Hard to say the grade, tried one day with soft skin and wrong beta, then did it next day with better beta. Could be 8c+."
Adam Ondra ticks Soudain Seul (9A) and flashes 8B+
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