27 September 2018

Olympic qualifying prediction

The Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires begins in two weeks and in less then six months the qualification for Tokyo begins. The count down have started and it is time to start training Speed seriously. Here is a prediction of 16 out of the male 20 that will make the cut. Narasaki, Harada, Schubert, Megos, Hojer, Ghisolfi, Schenk, Chon, M Mawem, Cornu, Kruder, Skofic, Lehmann, Ondra, Rubtsov and Bosi. What makes it interesting is that the max quota of two per country and with some few countries dominating, this actually opens up for lower ranked climbers, some who have not yet tried Speed and some youngsters that can get good progress during the last year. This is why four spots were left open.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ