
23 June 2022
Oliana partly destroyed by fire
Svana Bjarnason reports on Insta, "Climbing wise itโs hard to analyse the damages. To sum up: the left part of the wall has been severely altered (from the route โMichiโ), pre-placed quickdraws burned and many holds are now lying on the ground. The first layer of rock is destroyed, itโs breaking off just by touching it. It would need massive cleaning and rebolting. But the routes will never be the same again."
At the same time, she says that the main wall to the right look ok but some holds have broken off. The plan is to return to the site in September to try to secure and rebuild the site and she has started a Crow funding campaign where several famous climbers have donated up to Euro 200.
So in practice, many routes have been destroyed and might never be climbable again?
No, most of the routes seem to be ok but itโs impossible to know for sure, weโll have to test the holds because there might be micro-cracks, which means holds can break off at any time. But On the main sector, there are 6 routes left of the route called Mishi (so 7 including this one) that were severely altered. I donโt know if weโll manage to do something with it or if the rock is too damaged. In any case, it will never be the same route again. And thereโs another sector left of the main wall that also seems to be destroyed (16 routes). Iโm usually not climbing there but there are easier routes there and some people do climb it.
Most of the main sector doesnโt look that impacted but still, we found some holds on the ground, for example, a big chunk of the route ยซ Pacha Mama ยป fell from 25-30m. What hasnโt broken off yet might someday, it seems the rock has been a bit fragilized. As long as we havenโt pulled on some holds we canโt know for sure
At the same time, she says that the main wall to the right look ok but some holds have broken off. The plan is to return to the site in September to try to secure and rebuild the site and she has started a Crow funding campaign where several famous climbers have donated up to Euro 200.
So in practice, many routes have been destroyed and might never be climbable again?
No, most of the routes seem to be ok but itโs impossible to know for sure, weโll have to test the holds because there might be micro-cracks, which means holds can break off at any time. But On the main sector, there are 6 routes left of the route called Mishi (so 7 including this one) that were severely altered. I donโt know if weโll manage to do something with it or if the rock is too damaged. In any case, it will never be the same route again. And thereโs another sector left of the main wall that also seems to be destroyed (16 routes). Iโm usually not climbing there but there are easier routes there and some people do climb it.
Most of the main sector doesnโt look that impacted but still, we found some holds on the ground, for example, a big chunk of the route ยซ Pacha Mama ยป fell from 25-30m. What hasnโt broken off yet might someday, it seems the rock has been a bit fragilized. As long as we havenโt pulled on some holds we canโt know for sure
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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