23 June 2022

Oliana partly destroyed by fire

Svana Bjarnason reports on Insta, "Climbing wise it’s hard to analyse the damages. To sum up: the left part of the wall has been severely altered (from the route “Michi”), pre-placed quickdraws burned and many holds are now lying on the ground. The first layer of rock is destroyed, it’s breaking off just by touching it. It would need massive cleaning and rebolting. But the routes will never be the same again."

At the same time, she says that the main wall to the right look ok but some holds have broken off. The plan is to return to the site in September to try to secure and rebuild the site and she has started a Crow funding campaign where several famous climbers have donated up to Euro 200.

So in practice, many routes have been destroyed and might never be climbable again?
No, most of the routes seem to be ok but it’s impossible to know for sure, we’ll have to test the holds because there might be micro-cracks, which means holds can break off at any time. But On the main sector, there are 6 routes left of the route called Mishi (so 7 including this one) that were severely altered. I don’t know if we’ll manage to do something with it or if the rock is too damaged. In any case, it will never be the same route again. And there’s another sector left of the main wall that also seems to be destroyed (16 routes). I’m usually not climbing there but there are easier routes there and some people do climb it.

Most of the main sector doesn’t look that impacted but still, we found some holds on the ground, for example, a big chunk of the route « Pacha Mama » fell from 25-30m. What hasn’t broken off yet might someday, it seems the rock has been a bit fragilized. As long as we haven’t pulled on some holds we can’t know for sure
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…