24 November 2019
Redpoint Dinner 8c+ by Ola Przybysz (36)
Ola Przybysz, who has been in China for over ten years, has done her second 8c+, Redpoint Dinner in Yangshou. It was bolted in 2009 by Chris Sharma and then Wangqing Hua did it as the first 9a in China but later it was downgraded.
"After over two weeks of trying I felt that finishing it is very possible. One week later I was passing the crux move most of the time and falling on the endurance moves on the top, every time a bit higher. One day, driving to the crag, I knew I will send it that day. I got very excited. Roped up, rocked through the lower moves all the way to the crux. As I pulled all the way to little pinch tufa and got ready for dynamic move my fingers slipped and I took a fall. During the fall, one hand got caught in quickdraw what caused some serious damage to my pinky finger. The injury needed some surgery intervention what for me meant, that I will not be climbing my project for quite a while.
I came back this year and the climb took me another 4 weeks of trying before finally, three days ago I clipped the anchor. Its a really amazing line and definitely the hardest route I have ever climbed."
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