Off the Wagon Sit 8C+ by Sergii Topishko

Sunday, 26 December

Sergei Topishko, who previously just have done one 8B+, has done Off the Wagon Sit (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) Fedir Samoilov

Sergeii has been a very active competition climber during the last twenty years and in 2015, he was #4 in a Boulder WC. However, during the last six WCs since 2019, he has not made semi.

Please describe the process taking down your first 8C+?
Well, it started this April when I first tried to do the stand start. I did it super fast and left the sit start to my last day of that trip. Sadly conditions were not the best on that day to make the cross move, so I was sure that I am gonna do it for sure the next time. And, better late than never it happened on my 2nd sesh today, just after a quick warm up from the first try.

How can you explain the great progress at age 33?
It’s hard to say about the progress this year. This boulder fit me a lot and I am trying to spend more time outdoors during the last few years. Maybe I just became stronger… Age is just a number, when you have no injuries you can climb.

What is next?
I tried La Rustica today after sending Wagon and made the crux move to the pocket for few times, so I think I will put it together this trip. Dreamtime is also nice one, I think I will do it, and Poison the well (I tried this one in spring it was not so bad actually and I think I am ready for it now). I still have a lot of time in Ticino, till 13th Jan

What are your 2022 plans?
I will take part in European Champ for sure and some of the world cups, or maybe better clime some more 8C/+. You never know what’s better. I like comps too, but when you just compete and don’t climb outdoor, it’s not about climbing you know

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

RELATED NEWS

La Rustica 8C by Sergei Topishko

Friday, 31 December

La Rustica 8C by Sergei Topishko

Sergei Topishko has, in just three sessions, done La Rustica (8C) in Valle Bavona. "The best ending of 2021, did it in 6pm 31 December." (c) Marine Galunka Fiv…

Off the wagon Low by Yannick Flohé

Saturday, 1 January

Off the wagon Low by Yannick Flohé

Yannick Flohé, #3 in the Boulder World Championship in 2019, has done Off the wagon Low 8C+ in Valle Bavona. (c) Stefan Schmieg "Took me three sessions for the…

Roadkill 8C by Kim Marschner

Sunday, 14 March

Roadkill 8C by Kim Marschner

Kim Marschner has done his fourth 8C, Roadkill in Valle Bavona. He just needed five sessions and actually, all his hardest ascents including his 9a, he has done…

MOST COMMENTED

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

Tuesday, 17 May

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …

Monday, 16 May

Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b

Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…

SLC Boulder WCs back-to-back

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

SLC Boulder WCs back-to-back

Besides Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra, almost all of the biggest stars are registered to compete in the Salt Lake City Bouldering WCs during the two upcoming we…