Off the Wagon Low 8C+ by Simon Lorenzi

Friday, 26 November

Simon Lorenzi, who previously has made the FA of "The Big Island sit" 9A (8C+), reports on Insta that he has repeated Off the Wagon Low* 8C+ in Valle Bavona. "In 2018 I got really obsessed when @shawnraboutou did the first ascent of the low start. So at the end of 2021, I decided that it would be the last year of obsession (or not) for this king line."

In total it took him some 12 sessions and in the end, he found a trick on the crux. "The trick is to take the hold with all my fingers including the thumb on the hold. I go full crimp with my thumb on the hold (not on my index finger like a normal crimp position)."

What about any specific or replica training?
Nothing very special. Just some dynamic and precise movement with my right hand in a spray wall.

The Belgian has been an active competition climber since 2011 and in 2016 he won the Youth World Championship in Lead. In the World Cup, he struggled to have mostly hard times getting into the semi. In 2021, he focused on Boulder and directly he got two results in the Top-7.

*It should be mentioned that the boulders have been referred to as a Sit start but that is actually not the case if you are not super tall. The FA was done with a "crouch" start which is popular in the USA.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …