29 July 2023

Noah Wheeler has flashed two 8B's in Rocklands

Noah Wheeler, who last year ticked his first three 8C’s, has flashed Sky (8B) and The guest list (8B) in Rocklands. In the 8a ranking game, the 21-year-old is #10.

Can you tell us more about flashing your second and third 8B?
One of my goals for the trip was to flash Sky, but the day before we went to the boulder I had no sleep, and upon reaching the crag, I felt pretty tired. However, I decided I may as well give a flash rip for fun. I had watched a few videos prior where the climbers used a high right foot to keep their body from swinging in the first move, which seemed like the perfect beta for my height. The second crux move is just a pure board style throw, and as that is what I primarily train on, I knew I would have a pretty good chance to top once I hit the first hold. To my surprise, I stuck the first move pretty well, and just kept it together to the top.

I was close on the new 8c G-Master that Vadim Timinov recently put up but I kept punting on the v8 or so top section due to tired fingers. But yeah I also flashed the Guest List (the 8B which Master G climbs into) earlier in the session. In the 8B, the crux revolves around a controlled throw into a half pad or so crimp, which is a movement in line with my style. I knew I would have a good chance on the flash and just so happened to keep it together well enough to make it happen.

0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Updated: Alex Megos comments doing Change (9b+) in 5 sessions

Alex Megos reports on Instagram that after a disappointing performance at the Olympics, he traveled to Flatanger and in just five sessions he was able to compl…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Related
Naoki Shimatani does G-Master (8C)

Naoki Shimatani reports with an Instagram video that he has sent G-master (8C) in Rocklands. His big project is The Finnish Line (8C) where he has already spent…

Monkey Wedding (8C) by Austin Hoyt, 19,

Austin Hoyt, who previously has sent six 8B+, has done Monkey Wedding (8C) in Rocklands. ”All in all Monkey Wedding took me about eight days to piece together …

Allison Vest gets two 8B's done in Rocklands

Allison Vest has started her trip to Rocklands by doing Bitch! (8B), "Cooked up a new recycle beta with a high toe hook to avoid the big bump. Totally my style,…