
29 July 2023
Noah Wheeler has flashed two 8B's in Rocklands
Noah Wheeler, who last year ticked his first three 8Cโs, has flashed Sky (8B) and The guest list (8B) in Rocklands. In the 8a ranking game, the 21-year-old is #10.
Can you tell us more about flashing your second and third 8B?
One of my goals for the trip was to flash Sky, but the day before we went to the boulder I had no sleep, and upon reaching the crag, I felt pretty tired. However, I decided I may as well give a flash rip for fun. I had watched a few videos prior where the climbers used a high right foot to keep their body from swinging in the first move, which seemed like the perfect beta for my height. The second crux move is just a pure board style throw, and as that is what I primarily train on, I knew I would have a pretty good chance to top once I hit the first hold. To my surprise, I stuck the first move pretty well, and just kept it together to the top.
I was close on the new 8c G-Master that Vadim Timinov recently put up but I kept punting on the v8 or so top section due to tired fingers. But yeah I also flashed the Guest List (the 8B which Master G climbs into) earlier in the session. In the 8B, the crux revolves around a controlled throw into a half pad or so crimp, which is a movement in line with my style. I knew I would have a good chance on the flash and just so happened to keep it together well enough to make it happen.
Can you tell us more about flashing your second and third 8B?
One of my goals for the trip was to flash Sky, but the day before we went to the boulder I had no sleep, and upon reaching the crag, I felt pretty tired. However, I decided I may as well give a flash rip for fun. I had watched a few videos prior where the climbers used a high right foot to keep their body from swinging in the first move, which seemed like the perfect beta for my height. The second crux move is just a pure board style throw, and as that is what I primarily train on, I knew I would have a pretty good chance to top once I hit the first hold. To my surprise, I stuck the first move pretty well, and just kept it together to the top.
I was close on the new 8c G-Master that Vadim Timinov recently put up but I kept punting on the v8 or so top section due to tired fingers. But yeah I also flashed the Guest List (the 8B which Master G climbs into) earlier in the session. In the 8B, the crux revolves around a controlled throw into a half pad or so crimp, which is a movement in line with my style. I knew I would have a good chance on the flash and just so happened to keep it together well enough to make it happen.
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