27 January 2022
No tops on last boulder = One more RP try
The male boulder final in the Olympics was a bit of an anticlimax finishing with a total fiasco as everyone flashed the zone and then none of the seven Olympians could make any further real progress. In fact, it is not that uncommon that nobody tops out the last boulder and there is no celebration but instead just failures at the end of the event. In the last Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck, none of the 6 + 6 males and females actually did make even the zone on the last boulder.
One simple option to increase the excitement and to almost guarantee that the last boulder will be topped out would be to give everyone, that has a chance of winning (or making the podium), one more redpoint attempt. This would mean that the finalists would start to cooperate and share beta as soon as the climbers would fall off.
There are several twists that could increase the drama and make the final more successful:
1. Most likely, the climber who is #1 after the last boulder will top out also the last boulder as he/she will see climbers topping out and can copy their beta.
2. As for Tokyo, the last climbers would probably have saved some attempts* on the last boulder as they became aware that it is too hard.
3. The third guy last out knows that topping would mean a podium is guaranteed. If not topping, he/she could drop to #6 or so.
4. The runner-up before the last climber out might want the last climber to top out as this will secure his/her silver while the lowest-ranked climber does not want the last climber to top out.
When it comes to the Olympics, Nathaniel Coleman had already secured the win and any further redpoint attempts would not have changed this. However, a change of the rules would possibly have meant that some possibly had saved their attempts on the last boulder, like in high jumping, in order to be able to win and put pressure on Coleman.
In practice, most likely, Tomoa Narasaki #3 and Mickael Mawem #2 would only have tried the last boulder once or twice and saved the last attempt to have a redpoint go. In theory, even Adam Ondra who was #6 could have won if he did it on his second try, i.e. his first redpoint try. In any case, even by doing multiple tries as he did, Adam could still have been #2 if he would have been the only one redpointing it.
One simple option to increase the excitement and to almost guarantee that the last boulder will be topped out would be to give everyone, that has a chance of winning (or making the podium), one more redpoint attempt. This would mean that the finalists would start to cooperate and share beta as soon as the climbers would fall off.
There are several twists that could increase the drama and make the final more successful:
1. Most likely, the climber who is #1 after the last boulder will top out also the last boulder as he/she will see climbers topping out and can copy their beta.
2. As for Tokyo, the last climbers would probably have saved some attempts* on the last boulder as they became aware that it is too hard.
3. The third guy last out knows that topping would mean a podium is guaranteed. If not topping, he/she could drop to #6 or so.
4. The runner-up before the last climber out might want the last climber to top out as this will secure his/her silver while the lowest-ranked climber does not want the last climber to top out.
When it comes to the Olympics, Nathaniel Coleman had already secured the win and any further redpoint attempts would not have changed this. However, a change of the rules would possibly have meant that some possibly had saved their attempts on the last boulder, like in high jumping, in order to be able to win and put pressure on Coleman.
In practice, most likely, Tomoa Narasaki #3 and Mickael Mawem #2 would only have tried the last boulder once or twice and saved the last attempt to have a redpoint go. In theory, even Adam Ondra who was #6 could have won if he did it on his second try, i.e. his first redpoint try. In any case, even by doing multiple tries as he did, Adam could still have been #2 if he would have been the only one redpointing it.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



