27 January 2022

No tops on last boulder = One more RP try

The male boulder final in the Olympics was a bit of an anticlimax finishing with a total fiasco as everyone flashed the zone and then none of the seven Olympians could make any further real progress. In fact, it is not that uncommon that nobody tops out the last boulder and there is no celebration but instead just failures at the end of the event. In the last Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck, none of the 6 + 6 males and females actually did make even the zone on the last boulder.

One simple option to increase the excitement and to almost guarantee that the last boulder will be topped out would be to give everyone, that has a chance of winning (or making the podium), one more redpoint attempt. This would mean that the finalists would start to cooperate and share beta as soon as the climbers would fall off.

There are several twists that could increase the drama and make the final more successful:
1. Most likely, the climber who is #1 after the last boulder will top out also the last boulder as he/she will see climbers topping out and can copy their beta.
2. As for Tokyo, the last climbers would probably have saved some attempts* on the last boulder as they became aware that it is too hard.
3. The third guy last out knows that topping would mean a podium is guaranteed. If not topping, he/she could drop to #6 or so.
4. The runner-up before the last climber out might want the last climber to top out as this will secure his/her silver while the lowest-ranked climber does not want the last climber to top out.

When it comes to the Olympics, Nathaniel Coleman had already secured the win and any further redpoint attempts would not have changed this. However, a change of the rules would possibly have meant that some possibly had saved their attempts on the last boulder, like in high jumping, in order to be able to win and put pressure on Coleman.

In practice, most likely, Tomoa Narasaki #3 and Mickael Mawem #2 would only have tried the last boulder once or twice and saved the last attempt to have a redpoint go. In theory, even Adam Ondra who was #6 could have won if he did it on his second try, i.e. his first redpoint try. In any case, even by doing multiple tries as he did, Adam could still have been #2 if he would have been the only one redpointing it.
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