9 September 2020
No pain no game 9A+ by Antoine Kauffmann after 5 pulleys
Antoine Kauffmann reports on Insta that he has done his first 9a+, No pain no game in Rodellar. The name of the route pretty well describes the process as he in fact has torn his pulley five times during the last five years, when he did his first and only 9a. (c) Sรฉbastien Berthe
"I tore the first one in 2015 but I did not stop climbing so it became chronic and it lasted for two years. After this, I learned from my past errors and I threatened the new ones way better most of them lasted for 3 months which is more normal. I think it happened because a kept training when I was injured (doing musculation, pulls up, etc) and when I was able to climb again I put to much force too quickly. For the moment it goes better but I climb most of the time open-handed because I feel that my fingers are still strong but fragile. (No pain no gain was a super route for this because I crimp only two holds in all the route).
I started trying the route at the beginning of July. I choose this route because itโs super powerful and overhanging and it suits me really well. I tore my pulley a few months ago so I needed a project with some ยซ good holds ยป. It felt possible so I started the process: training hard and working the route as much as possible. After two weeks trying the route, I felt not strong enough, I needed more stamina so I returned to Belgium for 7/8 hard training days. The training paid and I started to feel way better in the route. I kept improving in route but had to try it a lot (40-50 tries?). Finally, I could clip the anchor in what could be my biggest fight ever.
Next, I want to train hard for "The story of two world's" and Off the wagon. I will be in Ticino this winter and I want to improve in bouldering before setting the bar higher and Iโm dreaming about 9b, especially in Flatanger."
"I tore the first one in 2015 but I did not stop climbing so it became chronic and it lasted for two years. After this, I learned from my past errors and I threatened the new ones way better most of them lasted for 3 months which is more normal. I think it happened because a kept training when I was injured (doing musculation, pulls up, etc) and when I was able to climb again I put to much force too quickly. For the moment it goes better but I climb most of the time open-handed because I feel that my fingers are still strong but fragile. (No pain no gain was a super route for this because I crimp only two holds in all the route).
I started trying the route at the beginning of July. I choose this route because itโs super powerful and overhanging and it suits me really well. I tore my pulley a few months ago so I needed a project with some ยซ good holds ยป. It felt possible so I started the process: training hard and working the route as much as possible. After two weeks trying the route, I felt not strong enough, I needed more stamina so I returned to Belgium for 7/8 hard training days. The training paid and I started to feel way better in the route. I kept improving in route but had to try it a lot (40-50 tries?). Finally, I could clip the anchor in what could be my biggest fight ever.
Next, I want to train hard for "The story of two world's" and Off the wagon. I will be in Ticino this winter and I want to improve in bouldering before setting the bar higher and Iโm dreaming about 9b, especially in Flatanger."
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