
6 August 2011
Nicole vs Graham: The logic of grade in- and deflation
Debate/Jens: Fred Nicole is the pioneer who some 8-15 years ago put up amazing boulders in Switzerland, Rocklands and Hueco Tanks. This was a a new era as steep boulders were in focus.
Previously, the hero Fred had been on the cutting edge, putting up less steeper lines in Fontainebleau etc. As he moved to steeper terrain and found himself fighting harder and spending more time to complete projects, logically he gave them harder grades and for which he should not be blamed.
At that time his grades were not inflated, but with the rapid spread of bouldering gyms and steep outdoor problems, a new generation of boulderers found Fred's steep 8Bs easier relative to vertical lines of a similar grade. During this time, personal grading was not very common as most climbers took the topo grades as gospel and once they set up new boulders, they used the first classics as grade references.
In 2003, 8a started to identify the problem with steep boulder grades, and as we informed the community we were heavily criticized. In 2004, Dave Graham stepped up and took a stand on the inflation issue. Graham published an article here at 8a on the topic, and down graded many boulders in addition to putting up The Story of Two Worlds, 8C.
Later, more 8a top ranked boulderers have adopted Graham's mindset and suggested personal down grades, deflating the steep boulders' soft grades.
33 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



