New World Cup quotas this year

Last year, each country was allowed to field five athletes per discipline at all World Cups events. In 2023, the world ranking will have a bigger impact and each country is only guaranteed 2 + 2 athletes. Furthermore, everyone in the Top-10 ranking from 2022, as also previous years, will be allowed to compete as well as up to three athletes ranked 11-40.

In theory, this means that Japan will be allowed to participate with 7 - 9 athletes in all World Cups, and on home turf another 4 athletes can compete. The USA also benefits and will, for the most part, be allowed to field six athletes at World Cups.

Spain will suffer from the new rules as they will only be allowed to have three males and two females on the starting list. Furthermore, The Czech Republic, Switzerland and Italy have no extra quota for male boulderers which especially for the latter country could have an impact on the Olympic qualification.

"3.2.1. Any currently-eligible competitors ranked 10th or better in the relevant World Ranking as the start of the calendar year (Extra Quota competitors);
3.2.2. In addition to specific individuals covered above, up to two (2) currently-eligible competitors;
3.2.3. In addition to the individuals covered above, up to an additional four (4) competitors where the Member Federation is the host nation; and
3.2.4. an additional number of competitors where the Member Federation has an Additional Quota in a relevant gender category and discipline, up to the number of that Additional Quota.
3.3. The Additional Quota for each Member Federation in each gender category and discipline will be determined by the number of competitors from each Member Federation ranked between 11th and 40th in the relevant World Ranking as at the end of the previous year using the values set out in Table 2 (Additional Quota)." More info at IFSC.