New comp format in Sweden based on the 8a scorecard and "Clip-points"

Due to a very low interest from participants and the gyms for the IFSC lead competition format, the swedish national coaches have launched a new format based on ideas from 8a. The qualification result will be calculated on the same principles as the 8a scorecard including counting "clip-points". This will make it possible to run the qualification based on existing routes without any officials at all. The competition will just be like any ordinary day at the crag where you choose which routes to challenge and later fill in your scorecard, which will calculate who made it into the finals. The whole construction of the idea is based on getting the same points as in the 8a scorecard, i.e. an 8a gives 1 000 points and max ten clipping points. The gyms should at least include ten qualification routes and base the result on at least four routes. The time frame could be some hours or a whole semester. In practice, you could use ten parts of the wall with maybe four existing colored routes each = 40 routes. 700 points: Clip #7 on an 8a or topping out a 7a 680 points: Clip #8 on a 7b+ (80 * 750) 679 points: Clip #7 on a 7c+ (70 * 950) 675 points: Clip #9 on a 7a+ (90 * 750) The overall score should be presented like an average so everybody super easy can understand the result. The anyhow best feature of the new format is that the results and progress can be measured over several seasons personally and by the coaches like in most individual sports. Further more, the qualification will be more of a Challenge and then the Finals, will be the Competition based on IFSC rules. - I have for many years suggested to simplify the format and to include more qualification routes and once I heard about the "clip-points" idea, it was simple to convince the competition scene in Sweden that this is the way forward, says Nicki Horak, National Coach of Sweden and personal trainer of Youth World Champion, Hannes Puman. - What I like the most is that it makes it possible to understand and measure progress based on the qualification results presented like an average. It will be very interesting to try it practically and improve the details of the format 2015 and if it works fine, the Challenge format could be a great world standard. 8a is also about to make it possible to run the Challenges directly through the 8a scorecard based on different time frames and number of counted routes. This set up could also be used once you are on vacation going for a personal one week record or simply Challenge your friends.