New Boulder and Lead score to be tested in Japan

EDITORIAL

21 September 2022

IFSC reports that the combined scoring system for the Boulder & Lead World Cup in Moriaka will be modified. In the European Championship, 3 points were given to the first zone and 6 points to the second zone. Now, instead, 5 and 10 points will be given to the first and second zone. In reality, this means that as the Top remains at 25 points, getting six zones = 30 points, can beat a single Top. Furthermore, there is a greater risk for ties in comparison with the previous scoring system. It should be noted 0.1 point is reduced from the score by each attempt.

When it comes to the route, previously you only got points for the highest 30 holds, and for the last fifteen holds 5 points each were added to your score. In other words, making it 15 holds below the Top was equal to only 25 points. In the updated system, 45 points will be awarded for making it 15 holds below the Top.

"The highest 40 holds off the Lead route will grant points to the athletes;
The highest 10 holds of the Lead route will grant a score of 4 points for each hold;
The following 10 holds of the Lead route will grant a score of 3 points for each hold;
The following 10 holds of the Lead route will grant a score of 2 points for each hold;
The following 10 holds of the Lead route will grant a score of 1 points for each hold; and
The remaining number of holds of the Lead route will grant a score of 0 points for each hold."

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