Natalie Bärtschi ticks Black Shadow (8A+)

Natalie Bärtschi, who stopped competing last year after 15 years on the IFSC circuit, has done Black Shadow (8A+) and Awunda (8A) in Rocklands. (c) Benjamin Weber

Can you tell us more about Black Shadow and what went into completing it?
Already during my first trip to Rocklands in 2013 I looked at Black Shadow and thought it was a stunning line but it was way out of reach at the time. Coming back in 2017 I set myself the goal to try something at my limit. Compression and toehooks are probably my favorite style of climbing so Black Shadow seemed like an obvious choice. Although I figured out the individual moves pretty quickly, the best I could do that year was linking it in three overlapping parts. I returned one year later but unfortunately tweaked my knee early that trip. Nevertheless I had one lucky go where everything fell into place and I got through the crux only to come up short on the last hard move up from the lip. In hindsight I just wasn’t strong enough to get through the crux consistently but at the time I was devastated. I even extended my trip for a week but the weather got really hot and I got sick shortly after.

The next few years were quite busy with competitions and school and I didn’t make it back until after the pandemic in 2022. My mindset around projecting became a lot healthier and although I was psyched to go back it didn’t feel like an obligation. I shared some valuable sessions with my friend Nic and started to enjoy projecting again. Although I could do the individual moves quite consistently, I never managed to link the crux from the bottom and even the end felt like a bit of a gamble. However, this time not sending didn’t feel like a failure, it just left me excited to come back even stronger.

My first session this year was like meeting up with an old friend. I reacquainted myself with the moves and it felt like I had never left. I was able to consistently link the crux into the finish but was too tired coming from the bottom. That session really gave me the confidence I needed to come back after a good rest. It took me a lot of patience not to climb on too many other things but I returned a few days later with fresh skin and well rested. My first attempts were good but not good enough and I forced myself to take a long break. I don’t like climbing after dark but I needed to let my hands cool down for better friction. Next try I hit the bump move perfectly and I knew immediately this was it. I topped out under the beautiful night sky full of stars and just sat on top to soak in what had just happened.

Preparing for World Championships last year really helped me keep up a good training routine throughout the summer and I probably felt the strongest I ever had. However, I underestimated how much mental energy it took and when I finally stepped away from competitions I felt pretty empty. Luckily it didn‘t take long for my motivation to come back and for the first time in almost 20 years I could fully focus on rock climbing. Although my training doesn‘t look too different, making my rock climbing goals a priority definitely had a big impact. For the first time I came to Rocklands with a fresh mind and body and not straight off a full comp season.

This trip also taught me a lot about tactics and being patient. I’m very bad at resting especially in a place like Rocklands but taking full restdays and resting enough between attempts is absolutely crucial. I‘m still trying to get my skin more durable for climbing on rock but more rest and being intentional with your tries is probably the most important. An extensive off the wall warm-up routine focused on fingers, shoulders and knees was definitely a game changer. Not only do I feel well prepared to try hard, it also helps to prevent injuries and preserve skin. Last but not least I feel very lucky to be surrounded by such a motivated and supportive crew here, sharing your passion is what makes this sport so fun!