28 March 2019

Nadine Wallner 8b/+ trad after less than four years climbing

Nadine Wallner, Freerider World Champion in 2013 & 2014, had a bad accident in 2015 which made her start climbing being 25 years old. In 2017 her hardest was 7b+ and then she meet and become good friend with Babsi Zangerl. Within 18 months she had done her first 8b/+ and now the second female ascent, after Babsi, of Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ trad. Here is her amazing story good for any record book. (c) Alpsolut pictures and Jacopo Larcher - a 7c in Squamish. "I started rock climbing in summer 2015. I had a open fracture tib/fib, while filming some ski lines in Alaska. For a while I couldn't ski anymore and started to climb. First it was more a rehab thing for my calfes but immediately I got addicted to this sport! Also the dream of getting a mountain guide got closer. In winter, last year, I met Babsi Zangerl in the gym. She lives pretty close to me in Bludenz. Babsi became a really good friend and we trained almost every day together. I also took her out skiing and shared my passion skiing with her. In spring I climbed my first 7c+ (Lucy), than my first 8a (Grenzgรคnger) and after this I could climb Euphorie 8b/+ at Voralpsee. I was super surprised and psyched! The rest of the summer I spent some time in the mountains working on some multi-pitches. Now I could send Beat Kammerlanderโ€˜s masterpiece Prinzip Hoffnung. It feels just unreal. But I like the style and approach of trad climbing. You could compare so many components with skiing."
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ