26 May 2023

Musson brothers, 12 and 17, send 8c and 8c+

Nathan Musson (12) and Maël Musson (17) have, respectively, done La théorie des cordes (8c) in St Léger and La proue debridée (8c+) in Roche de rame.

Their mother Christelle comments, "Nathan started climbing as a child, mainly on the cliffs at first. He immediately got hooked on the activity and progressed very quickly, which enabled him to do his first routes in the eighth degree at the age of 10. He then did his first 8b+ in Rodellar last summer and his first 8c at 12 years old this week."

Big brother Maël comments, "My brother has been my climbing partner since we were little. Our parents quickly trusted us and as soon as he was 6 or 7 years old we immediately started to belay and climb together. When I was his age I was already climbing in the 8th degree but I was far from having the ease that he has. I was doing 8a or 8b at most.

Can you also tell us more about your 8c+ ascent?
The route is divided into 3 sections. The first part of 5 quickdraws is very bouldery and technical. It is followed by a second resistant part of about fifteen moves which ends with some very intense moves which make the crux of the route. Finally, there is a last section of a 7c slab with a last random move. I started working on it during the February holidays. I quickly managed to master the first part which made me want to come back to try the climb. I went back every weekend in March. The route being south facing it was impossible to try it before 5 pm which did not allow me to do many climbs per session. I passed the start but fell at the last hard moves of the crux. Being not very tall, I couldn't do the traditional method. Then I couldn't go for a few weekends and I thought that it would soon be too hot and that I didn't have much time left for this year.

A fortnight ago, when I came back, I found a new method for the crux that suited me better and I was able to do the route a few tries later. I was so happy when I clipped the belay! During all the weekends we spent in Saint Léger, we often met the same climbers! The atmosphere was really nice! It was a great adventure!
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