Muffler 8A+ by Alex Johnson

Wednesday, 4 November

Alex Johnson has done her eight 8A+, Muffler in Little Cottonwood Canyon. (c) Jimmy Webb "Real pleased. I haven't climbed V12 since 2015. Maybe half a dozen goes from the start? Never did the last move til the send! Hopefully the start of some big momentum."

Alex has won two World Cups, the latest in 2010 when she was #4 overall. She stopped competing in 2015 but was on it again last year when she tried to make the Olympics and her best result was #7 in Bouldering.

So how was it possible getting back from the comp scene and what is next?
I kept my baseline fitness from training for all the cancelled world cups for 2020 and honed in on specific arm degree strength and finger strength with Camp4 Human Performance. Scientific Quantifiable strength testing yields more precise training. (Testing out max finger strength with a hanging scale. 2 hands together, each hand separately, at different arm bends like 90° and 120°, and on different size edge. (c) Bree Robles). Therefore even someone like me climbing for years can still see big gains and not plateau! For me, the Olympics is not happening, so all my focus is going to go towards outside climbing.


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