More downgrades by Ondra and Megos

Alex Megos has made a long Insta post about that he thinks his FA Pornographie in Céüse should be downgraded to 8c+ due to many repeaters have found a no hands rest using a knee pad. However, if you climb it in the original way without a knee bar you can still tick it as a 9a, he thinks. Overall, his opinion is that a route can have two grades based on the whether you used a knee pad or not.

Adam Ondra has made a down grade update of Chilam Balam to 9a+, in his logbook, which he did in 2011. Bernabe Fernandez did the FA in 2003 and suggested 9b+. Dani Andrada has also previously called it 9a+ but the consensus has been 9a+/b among the six repeaters who all used knee pads. The dilemma is that Fernandez did not use a knee pad so should he in the history books be called the first climber to have done a 9b+? Could, in fact, anyone up for a 9b+ grabbing climb it without knee pads?

My personal opinion is that anybody is free to climb in any style he/she wants and claim any grade but it is important to be transparent and honest. However, when it comes to media reports and especially ascents of historical importance, we have to base the grade on that the best possible equipment has been used.

If a female onsights Pornographie without knee pads, 8a will call this the first female 8c+ onsight in the world, even if she placed all quickdraws by herself.

I sent a draft to Megos and he responded. “ I'm not too bothered about up and downgrading. I just wish people would be honest and not just tick any grade even if it felt easier for them.