5 March 2017
Mind Control 8c by Findlay: UKC says first 8c+ and then 8c
Update: UKC has now changed saying it is a consensus 8c for which also Hazel Agrees upon!
UK Climbing reports that Hazel Findlay has done Mind Control and they report it with the original 8c+ grade even if "everybody knows it's only 8c", as Gabri Moroni said already in 2012. Hazel Findlay, one of the best female trad climbers, did not name any grade in her report, she just says, "This is the only route I've ever really thought about or trained for. And it's not because it's the best route I could find (although for a sport route it's pretty good) it's because I knew if I could do this route then I knew I would be over all my injury troubles."
8a started to report this as 8c (+) already in 2012 but the last year, we have reported it as 8c in order to not mislead our readers. Anyhow, great news from Findlay.
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